Continental Drift
After much upheaval via planes, trains and automobiles to get from Spain, to the US and now Canada, Jeff, Pebbles and I are finally settled on our new trawler yacht, Shackleton. For the next 6 months (give or take) our floating home will be in British Columbia, Canada on
Salt Spring Island. Because everyone knows there is no better time to be in the rainy Pacific Northwest than in winter! Per usual, the yin and yang of yachting means timing is rarely on your side.
So, how did we get here? We put Belvedere up for sale last spring and got lucky with an offer from her first viewing, which lead to the hunt for our next home. The first contender was a Choi Lee in the Freeport, Grand Bahama. We were both excited to go check her out as she seemed like she ticked all the boxes. Upon stepping aboard, Jeff sussed a dire situation immediately: severe structural issues due to water ingress from the top superstructure down to the hull. The owners had not been on her for about 2 years (red flag waving, learn from our mistakes) and despite having paid to have her tended to, all was far from well with her. They were devastated, as were we, because it was a long, expensive trip for for nothing! We were told to make a silly offer to take her off their hands, but we declined, as a project boat in a hurricane zone, during hurricane season, was not something we wanted even if we were paid to take her.
To make the best of the time we had left, we began our search again, first checking to see if there was anything else worth viewing in the Bahamas. There was not, however I found a listing for a boat in La Conner, Washington that seemed interesting. Jeff was thrilled as he had been watching it for a while. Upon taking another look, it had dropped to a more manageable price range, so Jeff and I headed back to Spain to plan another, more prepared, viewing. As fate would have it, it was perfect. Totally different to the Choi Lee, but in a way that was a better fit. With all that hassle and more (I'll spare you the myriad of details), the sale of Belvedere completed in July to a lovely young couple, Marlon and Claudia, who plan to take her further afield than we did. They'll probably pop up in the SLOG as I don't think we've seen the last of them—and happily so. If you've ever bought or sold a boat (or a house) you know it isn't generally a friend-making endeavor, but if you know us, you won't be surprised to hear we have become friends. With the money from Belvedere in our bank account, we promptly dispensed with it by purchasing Shackleton.
Once I was able to facilitated the move with the dog, I met Jeff in La Conner. He arrived earlier to began the task of figuring out what is needed to ensure she is ready for the trip down the west coast of North America to Mexico, continuing south to the Panama Canal, through the Caribbean and across the Atlantic back to Europe. While Shackleton had a small fortune spent upgrading her systems (by the previous owner), there were still things we'd need to do. Living aboard a boat requires a serious commitment to its systems if you don't want to live like you are camping. Shackleton, from what we could tell, clearly had spent the last few years in boat yards and marinas and we intend to live largely on the hook.
Thus far, we've swapped the 'old/new' lead acid batteries (because they wouldn't hold charge) for a top of the line lithium Epoch battery bank and Victron Energy System, changed the anchor for a CQR stainless steel and fit a new bow roller system. The second biggest expense, after batteries, was custom made roller shades for the windows, that without, had us living in a fish bowl.
We moved aboard with 2 suitcase each having put the stuff we know we'll be able to use, once back in spain, into storage. Anything electrical wasn't worth keeping as the new boat is 110v (standard in North America) and Belvedere was 220v, (standard in Europe). This meant anything with a plug would be incompatible with Shackleton. In addition, shipping the stuff we would need would cost more than replacing it, so it was decided to use that money and buy new stuff. There have been many trips to Costco, Home Goods, Trader Joes, thrift stores, etc, thanks to the rental car, to buy tools, appliances, bedding and other household items. Anything we couldn't find, once the rental car was returned, was sourced via Amazon and delivered to a local business center we paid to accept the packages.
We are now ready for the long, dark, dreary PNW winter. With a dog aboard, heading in twice daily in the cold rain and wind (most likely) would make life miserable for all, so we've opted for a marina in Ganges on Salt Spring Island. Originally, we thought we'd winter in Vancouver but it receives almost twice as much rain as the gulf islands, which are located in the rain shadow. That fact made Victoria the smart choice. Turns out everyone living here already knows this (duh!) and all the berths are booked well in advance. Thankfully, the locals suggested we look to the gulf islands for accommodation. While a tad more remote, several of the islands have ferries and sea planes to Vancouver Island and the mainland. With luck on our side, Ganges had room and won our heart, as it has everything we'll need within walking distance, including a pub (with a pool table) right off the dock sporting Guinness on tap.
Consider yourself caught up. You can expect a new post with more photos, as the history of Shackleton merits its own post down to her notorious beginnings in 1978. Until then, stay curious and BE SURE TO VOTE.
PS: Best part of all this, reconnecting with old friends! While on this side of planet, I'm getting to see friends from a lifetime ago. If I missed you, please reach out. Jeff exhausted his 90 days and must now stay in Canada for 6 months or until he gets a B2 visa. I am able to travel back and hope to do so during our stay.
Those I did see, and hope to see again if they'll humour me: Michele Kellett & Cindy McKinley from my Bowden Kellett days in Seattle (pictured below), Dave & Bekki Crider, Jim & Diana Blanchard and Cynthia & Troy Bach in lovely Bellingham. I regret not taking more pictures. We were too busy drinking and catching up and spaced it.
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